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Cala Sereno exists because the cove existed first. Everything else — the trails, the towns, the rice dishes — was here before us.
Three hundred metres of our own path through the pine wood and you're on a pebble cove with clear water, facing east: sun in the morning, cliff shade from five o'clock. There's a lifeguard in July and August; the rest of the year it belongs to early risers.
Three marked trails leave from reception: the cove path (10 minutes), the lighthouse path along the cliff (a good hour, best at sunset) and the climb to the high pine wood, where April smells of rosemary and the whole bay opens up.
Ten minutes by car there are two towns with a weekly market, a wood-fired bakery and bars where the mid-morning almuerzo is serious business. Tuesday is the big market: orchard fruit, cooperative olive oil and the pickle stall that has us conquered.
This is a land of soupy rice and fish straight from the market. Ask at reception: we keep a short list of the places where we eat ourselves, with phone numbers and first names. In season, call the day before.