The cove in September

There are two coves with the same name: the August one and the September one. The August one is wonderful, we won’t lie — but the September one is ours.

The water reaches 24 degrees after a whole summer of warming up, and holds there well into October. The path smells of sun-baked pine in the morning and rosemary in the evening. The lifeguard leaves on the 15th, which is the unofficial signal that the cove belongs to early risers again.

You notice it on the campsite too: the premium pitches, impossible in August, sit free on weekdays. The restaurant serves its rice without a waiting list. And mid season runs until 15 September, so the same week costs quite a bit less than a fortnight earlier.

If you can choose, choose September. We locals do.